There is a new sense of lightness and fragility that permeates through AFTERGLOW Collection 2022. Eschewing the bright colour spectrums and bold prints in collections of late, I wanted to switch gears and introduce a calm and sensual side to our characters. The quiet beauty. Yet how can we still make waves when stripped of these loud elements? Exploring the purity of lines, tailoring, and construction of clothes, this collection is a celebration of craftsmanship and the power of the handmade.
The colour palette is more subtle and controlled. Black, white, and grey... shot through with bright yellow, warm ochre, and manganese blue. Softness and comfort is reflected in the fabric choice of cotton, linen, denim and silk poplin. There is a notable play of transparencies within the collection. Balloon dresses of layered ramie gauze and silk give off an airy, luminous effect. Cotton silk organdy pieces are hand-pleated and steamed to create their distinct crinkled texture; hugging the body on some, while holding an enormous, flowing volume on others.
Graphic animal prints, executed in silkscreen and bleach stenciling, are cut up and assembled back together. A meticulous patchwork treatment is applied on striped fabrics, inspired by textile works of French artist Louise Bourgeois, creating an optical illusion of the breast. Traditionally feminine elements, such as bustles, flaps, and fringes, are twisted and made sharp on soft tailoring. The tension between masculine and feminine is ever so present. Constructions are deceptively simple. Beautiful inside and out.
Images by Naruebes Vadvaree